Yeah so I’ve been into wine lately. Or, to be precise, I have been learning more about natural wines. And dare I say that I am not the only one. When I was growing up wine was divided into two categories: the noble liquid that comes at an appropriately noble price and with a noble label, preferably Burgundy, Bordeaux, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Barolo or Brunello di Montalcino for reds and Chablis, or German Rieslings for whites. All had to be proper, reliable and taste like wine. You know, wine. Those were the wines that older or self-respecting folks drank and kept in their wine fridges. The other category consisted of cheap grape juice (think Barefoot or Yellow Tail), bought to, mostly, consume alcohol for the sake of consuming alcohol.
But now millennial generation has grown up and started dictating wine trends, with natural wines marching at the forefront. Drinking just any conventional tasting bottle is not cool, drinking cheap, sweet, mass produced and berry-flavored ones is atrocious. Newly formed natural wine drinking generation has several criteria for their grape juice: funky, mostly light (arrivederci heavy and blood-like Primitivos or Amarones), niche (wine from Slovakia? Yes, please), and as low-intervention as possible (hey, there’s even a wine retailer with that same name). Some other traits are desirable: affordable (why buy boring and hella expensive Chateau Mouton Rothschild when one can get perfectly fun light red from Languedoc), aesthetic (no more labels in off-the-shelf fonts, bottles are often decorated with doodles, drawings and might resemble kombucha, lemonade or beer bottles more than what might imagine wine is supposed to look like). And names are important. Go crazy with names. One can attract drinkers by catchy phrases, resembling chugging sound or dance moves, like Glou Glou, Tuti Frutti, Bum Bum Cha. Cultural references (Ploussy riot). Others opt for poetry, labelling their bottles with something profound like ‘I can see you from The Other Side of The Valley’ or ‘I wear blue, when I don’t know what else to do’ (iykyk which producer I am talking about).
Not only is wine presented differently, but there has also been a shift in its perception: once considered appropriate for elegant soirees, accompanying fine dining and served by a pompous sommelier, wine is now generously poured at trendy, buzzing but low-key wine bars by nonchalant tattooed servers or bar owners that resemble skater boys more than they resemble highbrow wine experts. Wine drinking crowd is undergoing a shift too: once in suits, cashmere sweaters, ironed shirts and cocktail attire, big part of the wine loving public is now dressed in oversized shirts, baggy pants, Birkenstocks and caps.
Rhetoric around wine has changed too: while the heavyweights and cult wines retain their mythical aura and divine glow, other, more accessible natural wines are a tad more easy going. They can be referred to as grape juice, natty, and what not. Do not be surprised if you see a blackboard with piss written on it (Or turbo piss, sold at 15 gbp per glass at Dan’s).
Speaking of wine venues, let's take the example of London. With the increasing gentrification and trendiness of East London, there has been an extreme proliferation of tiny, hip, neighborhood wine bars doubling as sellers. Exhibits in question: P.franco, Cadet, Dan’s, Newcomer wines, Planque, Sager+Wilde, Top Cuvee and others. Not to mention, the omnipresent bottles of London’s own Chin Chin by the new ruler of London’s wine kingdom, Noble Rot. Although the latter is a peculiar specimen, catering for the tastes of both classic wine connoisseurs and young trendy wine lovers. This, by any means, is not restricted to London – the same phenomenon is observed at Copenhagen’s Pompette, Gaarden & Gaden and Den Vandrette, Rome’s Enoteca l’Antidoto, and Vilnius’ Yda, Taures and Sadutotuto. I’m pretty sure you can find the equivalents in most bigger cities.
Now we have covered production, packaging, marketing, retail and drinking. It’s time for post-production. Or, in other words, how, how much and where we talk about our wine drinking experiences. It’s probably not that difficult to guess: the medium is now social media. Wine narrative used to be dominated by critics. The big names. The infamous Parker. Or Suckling. They would buy, drink, review and describe the wine for you. Then put a score on it and voila. Now the scene is a bit more democratic and diverse. A lot of wine writers have migrated to social media, but, most importantly, there has been a vast increase of micro wine bloggers and enthusiasts, who share the snaps of the bottles they pop along with a brief description on Instagram. Case in point: Wineguyzzzzz , The_wine_hoarder , romek.ma.wino. Unsurprisingly, all are fans of smaller producer, natural, low-intervention style vinos. And, frankly, I think this is great. Yeah, there is a lot of image, branding and trendiness involved, but it does seem to be promoting the shift towards more biodynamic, local and higher quality production (albeit too hyped-up or over-priced at times). I have used quite a bit of irony throughout the article, but, in the end, if people drink alcohol, they will at least consume that, which is a tad better for the human body, the environment, agriculture and, in my biased opinion, is usually more delicious or, at least, interesting. Cheers to that.




